Menage a Trois

July 7th, 2011

It would be very hard to argue that, from a visual, textural and inherence standpoint, sushi is not among the highest echelon, or possibly the epitome, of sexy food. It is, in many cases, rare, exotic, beautiful, elegant and incredibly expensive. This identical definition could apply to one’s favorite Victoria’s Secret model.

A true sushi experience is one steeped in romance. Recall your most exceptional and memorable raw fish encounter. I know that the majority of my top 10 have  of low lighting, soft music - just in the background somewhere and the silent, pensive, almost mystical focus of an Itamae.

Lets us be clear, I am not speaking of Cucumber or California Rolls. I mean to highlight what I feel to be some of the most precious bites of food in the world. When I am really in the mood, this is my go-to Threesome.

My First Time -

Sitting at a table in the belly of Virago, an uber-trendy Nashville sushi den that was a combination of fine fish purveyor and rave club, a friend of mine had the nerve to squeal in disgust when the waiter placed before me a pair of glistening Tobiko Nigiri with Quail Egg. A wonderful pillow of vinegared rice, wrapped in an tall ribbon of Nori to create a well - which is filled with bright Flying Fish roe and topped with the raw yolk of a minuscule Quail’s Egg. Shouting over the obnoxious techno blasting away, I asked what could have possibly caused this little outburst. Brooke politely told me that my appetizer made her want to puke. Being instantly crushed by her view of something I so dearly loved, I decided that I would share the Gospel of this flavor/texture combination and win her over from the Dark Side.

I began to convey that the simultaneous symphony of soft, slightly warm and subtly twangy rice, chewy, deep, oceany Nori, crunchy, salty Tobiko, all with a small wasabi punch buried within for good measure, was an amuse-bouche straight from Heaven. And the best part of all, when you break into that rich, delicious yolk it becomes a sauce, flowing through all of these layers, highlighting each difference – somehow making them more contrasting but at the same time more cohesive. It was simply, at that time in my life, my most very favorite thing to eat. And there could have been no more perfect a setting. Sexy people filled this restaurant on a nightly basis. It was truly a place to be seen and noticed – which is exactly what that dish accomplished. Its exotic and unfamiliar nature made it stand out visually and – in my opinion – its flavor made it the most prized in the house.

The message came through loud and clear despite the dim light and loud music. Brooke and I shared those twin works or art that night. I’m hopeful that she was converted for life. What she did say was that the description I gave which led to her overcoming her initial apprehension and partaking was spot on. She said to me, “you should be a food writer or something.” Having never thought gaining more from what I enjoyed eating than weight, the idea of sharing my feelings about food had not crossed my mind. But from that night forward the idea never really went away.

That was in 2005 and my first blog post was not until Jan of 2011, so I can’t say that I was insanely motivated by her statement. But I do feel that it truly is what finally led to me taking up space in my little corner of Al Gore’s Internet and letting people know what food I like and why. 

The More You Try It The Better It Gets - 

As I continue to grow and learn in life, it becomes more and more apparent that many first experiences are not completely accurate representations of full potential. If one refuses to try something a second time, to grant a “second chance,” after a not-so-pleasant initial foray, then they run the risk of missing out on a great deal of what life has to offer. If at first you don’t succeed and all that. Just because you hated something the first go-round doesn’t mean you will continue to hate it if you try again. 

I tried Ikura, or Salmon roe, on my second true sushi endeavor. I was about 15 years old and the very large spheres that burst with an oceanic briny flood my young palate could not appreciate were just too much for me to handle. I placed this back on the shelf of crazy or stupid and moved along with my tuna and mackerel. 

It was until this year that I reached for that shelf again and for the sole reason of granting that second chance. I pride myself, now, on trying anything and everything that I can, from a food perspective, at least once. There was no way that I could, in good faith, still hold ill will towards something I had not tasted in over a decade. 

I was sitting at the small sushi bar at Fuji, near my office, when I decided to grant this second chance. I ordered and placed before me were two bountiful nigiri. I mean these things were overflowing, quite honestly making the whole situation even more daunting. But there was something different this time - a gossamer thin slice of lemon hugged the side of each mound of eggs. They were beautiful.

I closed my eyes as my teeth pressed down in the first bite and I remembered the feeling as the same I had encountered years before. The massive orbs, slightly breaking - almost so lightly as to actually be melting, had nowhere near the crunch of smaller roe. That rush of the sea which, now being a lover of deep ocean flavors ranging from oysters on the half to squid ink, I am certainly equipped to appreciate filled my mouth and at the point that it almost became overwhelming, that bright, acidic lemon cut through and rounded out the flavor as remarkably fresh and clean. 

I ordered another round before I even touched the second piece on my plate. I wanted to do it again and again.

Sexy Defined -

Soft, earthy, protected and dangerous to get to, an acquired taste that may not be for everyone. The heady aroma and flavor of a truffle born in the sea.   Silken and creamy but with structure. Uni is quite possibly the sexiest ingredient in the world. 

At Tokyo in Ballantyne, Itamae Yang heaps sacks of Sea Urchin roe onto masterfully formed rice. Currently holding the rank of my favorite Sushi Restaurant, all sauces, including soy, at Tokyo are made in house. They have a host of specialty rolls that you will not find anywhere else.

But I can’t resist sliding up to the bar by myself and diving into half a dozen pieces of Uni in silence. It just makes me feel dirty. 

Virago

1126 McGavock St

Nashville, TN 37203

Fuji

14126 RiverGate Parkway Suite 400

Charlotte, NC 28273

Tokyo

3429 Toringdon Way
Charlotte, NC 28277

Just Dessert: It Hurts So Good - 

I would be remiss if I neglected to mention the Spicy Tuna Hand Roll at Tokyo. I sat one Saturday afternoon and watched in awe as Itamae Yang chopped, by hand, a few pounds of gorgeous tuna and, by eye, blended in mass amounts of Masago and Sriracha. He then rolled this fiery blend along with cooling cucumber into a large sheet of Nori. The heat builds with each bite, but it's impossible to stop. 

It's Just a Snack

I get cinnamon right off the bat, then cream. A smooth, young but knowing cream. Flavor, and depth, but sophomoric in finish. And that’s a complement. It yields to the stout crisp of the toast.

Harshly contrasting, I now feel the burn of mustard seeds. Almost overpowering it’s host. 

McClure’s Dill Pickles swiped briefly against a small puddle of Sriracha Chili Sauce. Sour, heat, crunch and salt.

Mt. Olive Bread and Butter Slices - because they were the closest jar when I reached in to the ice box. God I'm a pickle slut.

I honestly cannot remember the last time I approached, or created, a more satisfying culinary riddle.

All are different, contrasting and there. By there I mean THERE. Right in front of me. In my refrigerator when I return home from a long day out with my wife and friends. 

A leftover half moon of Chapel Hill Creamery’s Camembert sliced over some rosemary-olive oil toast and allowed to sit under the broiler along with an almost too old wedge of Smoked Gouda broken down on it's own piece of crusty bread  - THIS IS WHAT IT’S ALL ABOUT. 

Cheese Toast. Ok, really good cheese and really good toast. The rich Chapel Hill paired with the sweet preserved fruit and the oozy gouda dunked in the chunky whole-grained mustard.

A snack that took 45 seconds to assemble. Random items pulled together to create, on a simple wooden board, a symphony, a true symphony, of flavors, textures and, above all, combinations.

McClure’s Pickles. Brooklyn. Detroit. Not Charlotte. I bought the non-spicy jar because I am apparently a wuss. Lay a spear next to a dollop of asian hot sauce on your next appetizer platter and call me if you think it was a mistake.

The cinnamon that originally grabbed my attention came from the sliced contents of a jar reading “Abbott Farms Whole Fig Preserves.” I’ve never made a statement like this in this blog so I hope that it carries the weight that I intend...

If you eat any cheese of reasonable quality or toasted bread on any regular occasion then you must buy this product as an accompaniment. 

If you can't make the drive down I-85 between Gaffney and Spartanburg to secure your own and would like some then just call me and I will send a jar your way. A more versatile pantry staple has not yet been devised, in my opinion. 

For the first time writing this blog I sit with my computer inches away from my subject. No notebook, camera or drive home in between. Literally a keyboard on the kitchen counter next to a now empty plate, just a few smudges of red and mustard seed against white porcelain. Everything it held was immensely enjoyed while typing this ...and all I can say is “Damn that was a good snack.”

Go open your fridge. One of the best meals that you have all month might be waiting for you to put it on a plate.

Quickie #2 - Big Trouble in Little...Oh Never Mind

April 18th, 2011

Charlotte, NC

Today my main "adventure eating" companion and I visited the Asian Corner Mall in North Charlotte with the goal of checking out a Chinese restaurant we'd never tried - Dragon Court. Known as one of only two Dim Sum restaurants in Charlotte and boasting both a Chinese Menu and a Real Chinese Menu, this had been on our radar for quite a  while. What an incredible meal.

I had my first experience with Chicken Feet.  Steamed then heavily sauced with a sweet glaze, this is definitely something everyone should try. Chewy and gelatinous, they defined "finger-licking good." I will note that should this dish be set on your table along with others, eat this one first. As they cool, that unctuousness quickly turns into jello - eat them fast and while they are hot.  

The appendages were delivered to our table along with Pork Dumplings. Unlike any Pork Dumpling I'd had before, these were contained in a loose skin, not the typically tight noodle to which I have grown accustomed. But this was a good thing. The texture was like fresh tagliatelle, like the way fresh pasta can never be al dente. We were completely unsure of the cut of pork within. The Dumpling had a crunch that was reminiscent of both properly cooked shrimp and steamed organ meat. We decided to focus on the stupendous flavor, rather than try to determine the ingredient list. 

Next to arrive were the Steamed Shrimp and Pork Shumai. These little morsels my have looked like those microwave versions seen on some Chinese buffets and in your grocer's freezer, but they were far from it. These were extremely flavorful yet very clean tasting. Probably in the top two dishes of the meal.

A trio of dishes hit the table next, both Shrimp and Pork Rice Noodle Rolls and Steamed Beef Balls. The noodle rolls were very interesting. When steamed, they became very thick and doughy. When rolled they looked like Calamari mantle. The texture contrast with the filling, especially the roast pork, was quite nice - like little pillows.  

The Steamed Beef Balls were great. When not caramelized, like in your typical meatball, the beef takes on an almost sweet characteristic. The meat mixture must have been ground into a paste as it was very dense with no major signs of a binder. 

At this point, forgetting we had another course coming, I ordered some Shrimp Balls that I saw pass by on the way to another table. 

A few minutes later the Stuffed Tofu arrived. Tofu skins stuffed with what seemed like a very firm shrimp mousse, these were light and soft. The shrimp in the "mousse" were present in flavor only. Having been chopped to an very fine texture, there were no discernible shrimp pieces remaining, just the smooth, coagulated amalgamation of crustacean. They would have been a splendid end to the meal.

However, I had ordered the additional Shrimp Balls. They put the meal over the top - in a good and bad way. Lightly battered and fried shrimp paste, the interior of these was not  fabricated as intensely and left a few larger pieces of shrimp to be enjoyed. The outside was very strongly flavored - a richly deep chicken flavor. I made the comment that they almost tasted like they were wrapped in chicken skin. After a brief look around the internet, I quickly found a recipe for just that - chicken skin wrapped shrimp balls. I will have to ask our my next visit.

Speaking of next visits, there will be many. My friend put it very well when he said "every time we think that what we normally eat has become boring, we can just come here to recharge." That is exactly what Dragon Court has the ability to do, remove all feeling of the mundane, add excitement back into your dining routine and recharge your adventurous eating batteries.

Dragon Court

4520 North Tryon St. #40 

Charlotte, NC 28213

Thai Food is Spicy

March 11^th, 2011

Charlotte, NC

“As soon as I graduate I am outta here!” “I can’t wait to leave this place and never look back!” “I…I…I just want to dance!” These were phrases I often heard made by my high school classmates… or at least by the characters of high school films at the time. Growing up in the small town of Gaffney, SC typically inspired that singular goal, departure. I, oddly, seemed to enjoy the few benefits of a small southern town enough to not feel the need to participate in these musings.  I was content with the idea of commuting to larger neighboring city for my career while spending my home life in the area of my upbringing. 

Of course life rarely seems to work out exactly as your methodically-calculated 12^th grade dreams are dreamed. I left Gaffney for Columbia, SC, followed by moves to Charlotte, NC, Nashville, TN and back to Charlotte where my wife Catherine and I have made our home with our son. What I quickly learned, post-exodus, was that having been exposed to a Chinese restaurant with an all-white staff, an Italian eatery that offered 2 liters of red sauce for every 6 ounces of pasta served and a Mexican place (that I still consider pretty good eats) housed in the building of a former fish camp while being raised in Gaffney- I had essentially been exposed to nothing.

Now don’t get me wrong, my hometown still has a plethora of “southern” finds that rival any others you might come across…but it’s supposed to have those – it’s a southern town. I mean, from a global standpoint, I had no clue. My parents did a good job of trying to help my brother and I to venture out (in the culinary sense) through travel to cities as close as an hour drive on interstate to those in other countries. By 16 I was both a helpless sushi junky and I had eaten at the same café 3 times in one visit to Paris because of my instant addiction to their Moules. But all of my great meals at that point were destination foods. I had not yet put together that if I lived in one of these locations I could sample such vittles more often than on a bi-annually basis.

Thus far in my blog it can be justly assumed that while I certainly enjoy investigating food from any and all available cultures, my true loves tend to hail from the realm of Asia. I love the spices, the use of fresh non-processed ingredients and most of all the variance in the cuisine between each country and region. Anyone that hits up the China/Saigon Dragon and Happy Sushi Buffett on a regular basis can just move on – or else pay close attention, maybe you can learn a thing or two. 

One country’s offerings I fell in love with right about the time I moved to Charlotte for the first time (and around the same time that I was also falling in love with my future wife) were those of Thailand. Wonderful noodles dishes, awesome curries and always at least one menu item built around a crispy-skinned bird, what was not to love? Catherine and I spent much of our early dating life at one of 2 little places in Charlotte close to where we lived. When we moved to Nashville we brought our love of Thai food with us and soon found a worthy restaurant near our house that actually delivered. We were up to our elbows in Pad Thai and Green Curry at least twice a month.

Upon our return to Charlotte, however, finding a new Thai temple did not prove as easy. Inconsistent service and food quality plagued us. It seemed that as soon as a new shop opened in our vicinity, it would offer a lack luster experience and be shuttered in what seemed like a months’ time.  

Though once lost, we were found - about a month ago. I had the day off from work and swung through uptown Charlotte get a quick trim at The Cut Babershop. They have some of the coldest beer in town (and some of the friendliest stylists as well, check’em out) and, as such, the two I had during my haircut left my stomach very prepared for lunch by the time I walked out. Remembering that a friend of mine was now running a fairly new Thai place in uptown, called Basil, and had been telling me how good it was, I thought it the perfect time to check it out. I could not have been more right. This was just what we’d been looking for – even if a good distance from our house. 

I sat down at a high top in the bar and noticed that both the bar and main dining room were still really busy to be towards the end of lunch. Having a very modern Asian look inside, but not intimidating at all – I could see that even just hanging out for early drinks and snacks at this place would be a good idea. I ordered my first Singha (a Thai lager that I recently learned is pronounced simply Sing) and dug into the menu. I often find that eating at a place for the first time while alone is very frustrating in that I do not have others I can coerce into ordering an item with the sole intention of snagging a bite for my own purposes. Although I typically live by a sort of “I don’t give a damn what they think” mantra, sitting by myself at a table covered by eight or nine plates can sometimes leave me feeling a touch embarrassed. Based on this I decided to stick to an appetizer and an entrée only. 

My first choice was the Beef Larb. A meat salad (is there any other kind) that is of Laotian origin, Larb was served all over southern Laos which included what is the present-day Isan Region of Northern Thailand. A highly spiced and flavorful mix of ground beef, rice and onions as well as super-bright herbs like cilantro, scallion and mint, it is finished with fish sauce (a favorite of mine) and lemon juice. Served with half a head of crisp, raw cabbage, when the plate hits the table your mind goes ”great, this looks just like those lame-ass, prepackaged lettuce wraps from PF I’m-a-fake-Chang’s.” When you load up your first crunchy little leaf with this beefy, oniony, fish-saucy goodness and take a bite your mind then says “these things whip up on those P.F.-cups more than Chuck Norris would on TBS’ Seagal Appreciation Day.” They are light and fresh but have a depth of flavor that make you think these flavors simmered together for days. What truly caught me of guard, but completely made the dish, was the fact that they were served with the cabbage. Raw cabbage has this inherent sweetness but with a slightly peppery finish. That combination played so well off of the spice in the salad. Also, they offer a much more solid platform than would your typical, flavorless, ice burg.

For my entrée I decided on Chef Suntorn’s Signature Dish – the Crispy Red Curry Duck. Wow…Wow. Beautifully presented, the duck was boned and sliced. Coated in the best Red Curry sauce I have had, rich and creamy with the perfect balance of spice and sweet. The duck was incredibly moist under its still crispy skin – meaning that it must have had the texture of pork cracklin’s before being sauced. Crunchy and vibrant vegetables like snow peas, green and red peppers contrast well with the soft potatoes and tomatoes in the sauce. What was really cool was that as the dish lingered on your plate and the sauce worked its inevitable softening on that crispy exterior, all you had to do was load a snow pea on your fork with a bite of duck and your mouth was tricked into telling your brain that the skin was still crunchy as hell. That kind of dish takes skill and if the chef’s other specialties are as well prepared as this then my next visits will not be disappointing. Also worth mentioning, both of the dishes I ordered could easily have served two people, they do not hold back on portions, making a big family-style lunch or dinner easy to accomplish. 

I very rarely regret where my life has taken me and even though I sometimes get a little twinge to move back to my small town roots, I know that the world that has been opened for me by some truly amazing restaurants is not going anywhere. They just leave me saying that “I can’t wait to go back!”

Basil Thai Restaurant

210 N Church St.

Charlotte, NC 28202

Quickie #1

March 30, 2011

Charlotte, NC

So up until now each post I’ve written has begun with a story or anecdote about myself or my life that is in some way, direct, convoluted or even completely opposite, connected with the food subject at hand. They are typically, in my opinion, funny and/or ironic and make my blog different than the vast majority of the ones that I have read in the past. 

Right now, however, I find myself in the unique position of not having some symbolic past experience or life lesson to tie to my latest food discovery. Of course this might be a good thing as the current topic at had is Fried Chicken Livers - I feel very confident that I have successfully found the best in the world!

Whilst ordering the obligatory, but no less awesome, Buffalo Chicken Sandwich at Wing King Cafe, which is on the corner of S. Tryon St. and Carowinds Blvd in Charlotte, I noticed that they offered Fried Chicken Livers as an appetizer. I have been in search of the greatest chicken liver for many years, having ordered them from scores of hole-in-the-wall down home restaurants, gas stations, high-end “new southern” trend setters, asian establishments and many of the highway stalking general store/eateries that are named after small biscuit storage units from the turn of the last century. There was no way I was not giving these a try. I’m now very thankful that I did. 

With an extremely crispy exterior and only the slightest hint of iron, these were extraordinarily clean and fresh tasting. Served with a side of the King’s house buffalo sauce, which I’d never seen as an accompaniment to these crunchy offal treats but was pleasantly surprised, these easily topped all that I’d tried before. 

Do yourself a favor... if you love chicken livers, hate chicken livers because they were “bloody” or irony tasting when last you had them or have never tried them before but are in any way interested - give these a shot. You will not be disappointed.

Wing King Cafe

13209-B Carowinds Blvd.

Charlotte, NC 29273

Fun & Fellowship

March 24th, 2011

Gaffney, SC

They were loud. Incredibly loud. Obnoxiously loud. My six year hold hands could barely cover my ears enough, while holding a blow up sword in one and a bag of cotton candy in the other, to halt a drum blowout. They were the bane of every parade I attended in the early years of my life. 

Shriners Go Karts. 

Whether made over to look like stock cars, Corvettes, old hillbilly trucks or 57 Chevy’s, you could hear them pop and sputter and whine for what seemed like miles before they entered site. Call me a wuss but I was young, had sensitive ears and hated those things. For all I new those guys’ idea of a fun weekend was tying a few kids to a post and driving circles around them in those backfiring soap boxes. What were these Shriners anyway... old dudes in funny hats with, at the time at least, bad mustaches? 

As has happened with so many things in my life, I grew up to find what I once thought true to be just a bit different. Not only do most Shriners refrain from intentionally scaring kids with their minicars, but they also raise millions of dollars every year to fund their 22 hospitals in North America where children are treated for spinal cord injuries, burns and orthopedic ailments without financial obligation. I have found that they can cook the hell out of some Quail as well.

Established in 1870 as an appendage of the Free Masons on the basis of “fun, fellowship and brotherly love,” the club known for it’s social participation and generosity. Twice every year the Cherokee County Shrine Club hosts a fundraising dinner which focuses on the delectable little fowl that, unless you own a 12 gauge and a few acres of land outside of town, are not typical dinner fare. Tonight I was able to attend my second of these “Quail Dinners” with my dad and younger brother who was visiting from Charleston, SC. Over a thousand of the farm raised little birds were brought in to the “Temple” situated on, appropriately enough, Shrine Club Rd on the southern side of my home town, Gaffney, SC. 

In the spirit of the previously mentioned fellowship, this is great “activity food” as I like to call it. Not unlike a crawfish boil, oyster roast or low country boil(I believe it was only coincidence that those three examples all revolved around seafood, but I am certainly in need of a trip to the beach), eating quail require a large amount of effort on the part of the eater. Many small bones must be navigated, avoided and discarded in order to enjoy the relatively small amount of meat they possess. This is a down and dirty, eat with your hands, 24-paper towel kind meal. Lightly breaded and deep fried in peanut oil, when you tear into a half dozen or so(emphasis on the OR SO)  you feel the satisfaction of having at least put in some effort for your meal. 

The small muscles of the quail take on the consistency of fried frog legs, a good amount of chewiness, but not so much that it diminishes the enjoyment. Though it does make one wonder the difference between the admittedly non-professional kitchen “staff” here at the Shrine Center and the french guys to whom I forked over $20 for my last plate of amphibian. Perfectly seasoned and still warm from the oil, it was very hard to pay attention to the array of sides accompanying the main but I was strong enough to give them their due. 

Corn and green beans, staples on any dinner table in our region, they were good but not necessarily noteworthy. The dressing however, wow. Traditional southern cornbread dressing, awesomely seasoned and still incredibly moist, this is one side dish that I admittedly have never made and want so dearly to master. Biscuits - light, fluffy, buttery perfection. Screw a gun, happiness is a warm biscuit. All of these were spread out on the tables to be passed and eaten family style and were highlighted by the pièce de résistance - pitchers filled with brown gravy. PITCHERS FILLED WITH BROWN GRAVY! When any item ran out you raised your hand and they brought you more. What that means is for an entire hour, this evening, I had PITCHERS OF BROWN GRAVY ON CALL! I raised my hand and guess what happened...MORE BROWN GRAVY!

Sorry, I got a little overwhelmed there, ok, Im back. 

So the ol’ Masons were looking for fun, fellowship and brotherly love. I’d say that this night had all of that - great food, a couple of beers, hanging out with my dad, brother and some old friends I had not seen in quite some time, not to mention those pitchers, I would highly recommend making the trek to Gaffney at least once to check out this night of bone throwing. You have 2 chances per year!

 Cherokee Shrine Club
151 Shrine Club Rd.
Gaffney, SC 29340

Don’t F#@% With My Cheeseburger

March 20, 2011

Charlotte, NC

The majority of the senior management at my company, when trying to convey a point, explain a process or just tell a story, use sports analogies. They often relate a coach’s relationship with a player or a team’s triumph over a one-man show. 

These are typically lost on me. Not that I am unable to see the correlation between the anecdote and the issue at hand, but it just doesn’t get my creative juices flowing especially when they are referring to a specific game or player from 30 years ago. I like sports, just not THAT much.

In one instance, however, I was all ears while listening the our President and CEO speak when he used a food analogy. He is a very surefooted and pensive man who is not afraid to make fun of an economic analyst in an 8K or curse, with gusto, in a room full of employees in the middle of the bible belt. He was discussing our company’s plans to begin a new service offering and mentioned his only instruction to the group initiating this new product was that “this new hotdog had better not F#@% with his cheeseburger.” Now we’re talking! 

Interest now peaked and ready to seriously pay attention, I listened as he explained how a cheeseburger shop can make the best burgers in town. Then, in an effort to follow that entrepreneurial American spirit, they decide to add a hotdog to the menu. The hotdog is subpar and, because of their distain for the new venture, customers stop coming altogether - awesome burger or not. Next thing you know the place is out of business. This is what I thought of the first time I walked into Cast Iron Waffles and looked at the menu. 

Aside from their beverages - typical breakfast fare made up of fair trade coffees in all her forms, assorted teas of excellent quality and smoothies along with milks, juices and sodas - they serve waffles. Belgian Liege Waffles to be exact, but more on that in a second. They do not offer hashbrowns. No omelette station, eggs over easy on a griddle or even the fake stuff stirred in a cup and zapped on high for 45 seconds. No pastries, muffins or danish. No toast with jam. And, heaven forbid, NO MEAT PRODUCTS AT ALL! I mean no sausages, country ham or BACON. “How in the hell can a place serving breakfast not offer delectable, crispy, cured pork product to accompany its main lineup and expect to stay in business,” I asked myself on that first visit. 

I thought back to the musings of my almighty Chief Executive because when I originally thought about his analogy for a bit I realized that it was quite singular. Think about it, outside of those hotdog and hamburger temples, who else out there is able to get away with cooking only one thing. Its quite the opposite actually. These days most restaurants, especially those in the middle of the road, national chain, category, make a gut-wrenching game of who can cram the most crap on one menu (read Cheesecake Factory, if I wanted to get fish tacos, asian shrimp and a french dip at the same place I would mosey over to the Food Court and save myself 60%). No, those roadside burger joints and downtown hotdog carts are the only places that can get away with it. To try that with any other kind of fare would be financial suicide. Unless....unless, like those hero’s of grease, you take that one item and prepare it as if your life depended on it - because no doubt your livelihood does. You set out and through trial, error, science, common sense, skill and whimsy create something that is absolutely wonderful. Something truly different and astronomically better than anything of its kind that people have had in the past. What I’m saying is that if the Liege Waffles in Belgium are any better than those at Cast Iron Waffles then I can never have them, as I would die. 

Originating in the city of Liege, Belgium, these waffles are typically a more rich, dense and inherently sweet waffle than the traditional Belgian. Basically the volume on all of the great aspects have been turned up to 12. Adapted from brioche bread dough, they incorporate chunks of pearl sugar. At Cast Iron, when the waffles come out of the namesake Press, they are transferred to an inferred broiler where that sugar is caramelized in the outer crust. This creates an awesome crystalline crunch, not unlike that enjoyed in hunks of really good parmesan, which really adds to the decadence of the experience. 

Cast Iron offers their waffles in several forms, Naked - typically dusted with powdered sugar - giving you the ability to simply enjoy it for what it is... pretty damned close to perfection. Extra Sweet are topped with your choice of house whipped cream, an incredible maple butter, melted belgian chocolate or, my wife’s favorite, Nutella. The Deluxe takes the Nutella and whipped cream and ads fresh fruit, typically strawberries, peaches, kiwi, etc. They will top your waffle with a scoop of fat free(which is basically like ordering that Diet Coke with your Quarter Pounder meal) to make it a sundae. They have also started making some specialties such as the berry cobbler and the peanut butter cup, which is what I had this morning and inspired me to write this article. It was a sweet, salty, slightly crunchy square of awesomeness that had that rich mouthfeel of an over-stuffed peanut butter fold-over with a stellar contrast of warm waffle and cold from the fridge whipped cream. 

I have to be honest, the first day that I walked in I said to myself “eat up now because there is no way a place that just serves waffles can stay in business.” But I swear, when they do something this incredibly well, it makes complete sense that now, months later, they are still thriving...and my stomach is very thankful for that. 

Cast Iron Waffles

9604 Longstone Ln

Charlotte, NC  28277

What Comes Around...

February 28^th, 2011

Charlotte, NC

In my elementary school years I was involved in a boys group at church called the RA’s or Royal Ambassadors. Not unlike the cub scouts for that age group, it focused on development of character as well as growth mentally, physically and spiritually. One of our more frequent activities was taking one-night camping trips on some farmland owned by one of our RA leaders. It was on one of these trips that I was introduced to two things that would, ultimately, have a long lasting impact. The first…snipe hunting. I would spend many late, dark nights thereafter initiating others into the adventure of pursuing those elusive little rodents. The second…SPAM.

I was first served SPAM, sliced, sautéed in a skillet over a campfire and served on toast, by a fellow RA when I was 11 and he 12. I can remember watching that rectangular wad of compressed meat and binder splat onto the plate and then seeing it give way to a butter knife far too easily to be an actual meat product. I knew it was a bad idea before taking a bite but hey, I was with a loving and supportive group of boys that were between 10 and 13 years old – had I not tried it I would have been made fun of so badly I would not have been able to go to sleep because of the rapid-bottom-lip-movement. So I grinned, endured the taste texture and smell and then vowed never to eat it again. Simple.

A year or so later I went with my parents and bother on a little family excursion to Universal City in California. We were able to stay on the concierge floor of the Universal Hilton where, everyday, an afternoon snack was served. There would be various little treats and beverages, a pretty cool spread for a kid my age. One day there were these little rolls with rice on the outside and some kind of protein and vegetation inside. From what I’d seen on TV I knew that this stuff was sushi. And since I had recently read that the favorite food of Jason Gedrick, who played my favorite character of all time (Doug Masters), in my favorite movie of all time (Iron Eagle), was sushi, I was then bound and determined to try it and love it. Although it’s a little fuzzy nearly 2 decades later, I am pretty sure that my first foray into the Sushi arena that day in California was, a platter barely gas station worthy California Rolls. I decided very quickly that those “Hollywood” people were crazy to eat such horrible vittles and, again, made a solemn vow – this time to avoid the consumption of sushi, in any of its forms, ever again.

Thankfully, a few years later, I came to my senses, tried sushi again – at a very worthy and unfortunately now defunct temple to sushi called Tokyo in Charlotte, and I was able to find one of my most beloved food platforms. Sushi has opened my eyes to an entire world of flavors, textures and creatures that are rare to experience in most any other foods.

An enjoyment of SPAM, however, was not something that had come full circle. I had had no other reason, opportunity or inclination to venture back into the realm of potted meat. It’s just not a common “go to” in my life. For those who live in Hawaii, though, this is a different story. The love of “The Hawaiian Steak,” as SPAM is referred to often, is so dominant in the islands that it is on the menu at both McDonald’s and Burger King. It would then make sense that, on my first visit to Aloha Hawaiian BBQ & Grill in the White Hall Shopping Center on S. Tryon in Charlotte, I found something very interesting on the menu – SPAM Musubi. Literally an onigiri roll made with rice and sliced, warm SPAM. Do you really think I could say no?

I ordered one immediately and was amazed at what was laid before me. A thick layer or warm sushi rice and a freshly griddled slice if compressed ham, neither too thin nor too thick. Paired with a sweet and sour dipping sauce, it was quite incredible. The soft rice and chewy nori perfectly masked any possible textural unpleasantness created by the SPAM itself. The combination truly seemed to result in some umami characteristics. I will be ordering this again in the future.

The also have some other pretty incredible Hawaiian favorites. Chicken Katsu – pounded thin and breaded then fried to an awesome crispness. BBQ Chicken marinated in Hawaiian sauce – it stays very moist while on the charcoal. Kalbi Short Ribs - sweet and succulent. This little joint really has a lot to offer.

But in the end, there are 2 things that I once said I’d never try again that I have now come to love. Oddly enough they had to be combined for me so be able to say that about the both of them.  In an effort to save my son from a partially similar fate I have, at least, planted the sushi seed – which seems to be growing nicely.

Aloha Hawaiian BBQ & Grill

8107G South Tryon Street

Charlotte, NC 28286