July 7th, 2011
It would be very hard to argue that, from a visual, textural and inherence standpoint, sushi is not among the highest echelon, or possibly the epitome, of sexy food. It is, in many cases, rare, exotic, beautiful, elegant and incredibly expensive. This identical definition could apply to one’s favorite Victoria’s Secret model.
A true sushi experience is one steeped in romance. Recall your most exceptional and memorable raw fish encounter. I know that the majority of my top 10 have of low lighting, soft music - just in the background somewhere and the silent, pensive, almost mystical focus of an Itamae.
Lets us be clear, I am not speaking of Cucumber or California Rolls. I mean to highlight what I feel to be some of the most precious bites of food in the world. When I am really in the mood, this is my go-to Threesome.
My First Time -
Sitting at a table in the belly of Virago, an uber-trendy Nashville sushi den that was a combination of fine fish purveyor and rave club, a friend of mine had the nerve to squeal in disgust when the waiter placed before me a pair of glistening Tobiko Nigiri with Quail Egg. A wonderful pillow of vinegared rice, wrapped in an tall ribbon of Nori to create a well - which is filled with bright Flying Fish roe and topped with the raw yolk of a minuscule Quail’s Egg. Shouting over the obnoxious techno blasting away, I asked what could have possibly caused this little outburst. Brooke politely told me that my appetizer made her want to puke. Being instantly crushed by her view of something I so dearly loved, I decided that I would share the Gospel of this flavor/texture combination and win her over from the Dark Side.
I began to convey that the simultaneous symphony of soft, slightly warm and subtly twangy rice, chewy, deep, oceany Nori, crunchy, salty Tobiko, all with a small wasabi punch buried within for good measure, was an amuse-bouche straight from Heaven. And the best part of all, when you break into that rich, delicious yolk it becomes a sauce, flowing through all of these layers, highlighting each difference – somehow making them more contrasting but at the same time more cohesive. It was simply, at that time in my life, my most very favorite thing to eat. And there could have been no more perfect a setting. Sexy people filled this restaurant on a nightly basis. It was truly a place to be seen and noticed – which is exactly what that dish accomplished. Its exotic and unfamiliar nature made it stand out visually and – in my opinion – its flavor made it the most prized in the house.
The message came through loud and clear despite the dim light and loud music. Brooke and I shared those twin works or art that night. I’m hopeful that she was converted for life. What she did say was that the description I gave which led to her overcoming her initial apprehension and partaking was spot on. She said to me, “you should be a food writer or something.” Having never thought gaining more from what I enjoyed eating than weight, the idea of sharing my feelings about food had not crossed my mind. But from that night forward the idea never really went away.
That was in 2005 and my first blog post was not until Jan of 2011, so I can’t say that I was insanely motivated by her statement. But I do feel that it truly is what finally led to me taking up space in my little corner of Al Gore’s Internet and letting people know what food I like and why.
The More You Try It The Better It Gets -
As I continue to grow and learn in life, it becomes more and more apparent that many first experiences are not completely accurate representations of full potential. If one refuses to try something a second time, to grant a “second chance,” after a not-so-pleasant initial foray, then they run the risk of missing out on a great deal of what life has to offer. If at first you don’t succeed and all that. Just because you hated something the first go-round doesn’t mean you will continue to hate it if you try again.
I tried Ikura, or Salmon roe, on my second true sushi endeavor. I was about 15 years old and the very large spheres that burst with an oceanic briny flood my young palate could not appreciate were just too much for me to handle. I placed this back on the shelf of crazy or stupid and moved along with my tuna and mackerel.
It was until this year that I reached for that shelf again and for the sole reason of granting that second chance. I pride myself, now, on trying anything and everything that I can, from a food perspective, at least once. There was no way that I could, in good faith, still hold ill will towards something I had not tasted in over a decade.
I was sitting at the small sushi bar at Fuji, near my office, when I decided to grant this second chance. I ordered and placed before me were two bountiful nigiri. I mean these things were overflowing, quite honestly making the whole situation even more daunting. But there was something different this time - a gossamer thin slice of lemon hugged the side of each mound of eggs. They were beautiful.I closed my eyes as my teeth pressed down in the first bite and I remembered the feeling as the same I had encountered years before. The massive orbs, slightly breaking - almost so lightly as to actually be melting, had nowhere near the crunch of smaller roe. That rush of the sea which, now being a lover of deep ocean flavors ranging from oysters on the half to squid ink, I am certainly equipped to appreciate filled my mouth and at the point that it almost became overwhelming, that bright, acidic lemon cut through and rounded out the flavor as remarkably fresh and clean.
I ordered another round before I even touched the second piece on my plate. I wanted to do it again and again.
Sexy Defined -
Soft, earthy, protected and dangerous to get to, an acquired taste that may not be for everyone. The heady aroma and flavor of a truffle born in the sea. Silken and creamy but with structure. Uni is quite possibly the sexiest ingredient in the world.
At Tokyo in Ballantyne, Itamae Yang heaps sacks of Sea Urchin roe onto masterfully formed rice. Currently holding the rank of my favorite Sushi Restaurant, all sauces, including soy, at Tokyo are made in house. They have a host of specialty rolls that you will not find anywhere else.
But I can’t resist sliding up to the bar by myself and diving into half a dozen pieces of Uni in silence. It just makes me feel dirty.
Virago
1126 McGavock St
Nashville, TN 37203
Fuji
14126 RiverGate Parkway Suite 400
Charlotte, NC 28273
Tokyo
3429 Toringdon Way
Charlotte, NC 28277
Charlotte, NC 28277
Just Dessert: It Hurts So Good -
I would be remiss if I neglected to mention the Spicy Tuna Hand Roll at Tokyo. I sat one Saturday afternoon and watched in awe as Itamae Yang chopped, by hand, a few pounds of gorgeous tuna and, by eye, blended in mass amounts of Masago and Sriracha. He then rolled this fiery blend along with cooling cucumber into a large sheet of Nori. The heat builds with each bite, but it's impossible to stop.
